Poptop lift assist struts installed

I recently purchased a Thule Evolution 1800 cargo box from Craigslist in order to store/carry more stuff when camping/road tripping.

With the added weight on top, I decided to purchase the GoWesty poptop lift assist kit to make opening the poptop easier.  http://www.gowesty.com/product-details.php?v=&id=24205

The kit arrived, and I was eager to get started.  The instructions were a bit lacking in detail.  The first issue I hit was regarding drilling a hole for the mounting brackets.  Instructions state to place the bracket just in front of the existing rear hinges, yet there is a rivet there.  I was able to find just enough surface to set it, mark, and drill.  FYI - a small starter hole with a drill bit is helpful rather than solely relying on the self tapping screw.

But, on the first drill I went through a layer of metal and then hit another one below.  Not knowing if this was meant to be, I decided to stop.  I called and emailed, and then received a callback the next day.

GoWesty checked another Weekender and admitted that there was a rivet.  He said I could drill it out, but he also said that the second layer of metal below is normal.  Thus, I decided to leave in the location I chose.  I drilled the remaining rear mount bracket holes and installed them with the provided self tapping screw.




Next, I attached the struts to the balls on the installed mounts and to the front ball mounts as well.  Then, with the poptop up, I marked where the front mounts should be installed (the struts come extended, and are nearly impossible to compress by hand which I confirmed with GoWesty, I wasn't sure about this cause I thought that maybe they'd compress and lock for smaller shipping packages... not the case).

So knowing that the struts were at full extension, I drilled and then inserted the bolts/washers from the top.  Then, I went back inside, and I was able to thread the nut/washer and hand tightened.  Next, I gently closed the poptop for the first time with the struts lightly secured.  Now that the top was down, I was able to hold the nut on the inside of the EV while reaching on top with a socket to tighten.

I tightened to a light torque on just one bolt with the 2nd front bolts hand tightened.  I still need to get some silicone to seal the outside bolt/washer as advised by GoWesty.

I opened and closed the poptop several times.  I'm quite impressed by the amount of lift assistance this provides.  I'm eager to load up the Thule next.

Almost done... just need to hit the hardware store tomorrow for the silicone and then final tighten the bolts.

More insulation for my van

Updated: 6/29/16 - Watch and listen to a short video that compares three areas of the EV with different states of insulation/sound deadening (rear hatchback with FatMat & denim, read driver's side panel with FatMat only, and middle panel area with table with nothing)


My 1993 Eurovan Weekender is a bit noisy while driving (ambient and road noise).  There have been a variety of reasons for this including bad shocks, missing window molding, misc rattles inside, etc.

So I've had a constant goal to make it more comfortable and quieter.  This past weekend I did more FatMat in the front passenger door and denim insulation in the sliding door and rear hatchback door.  The removal of the panels from the doors is relatively easy, especially if you've done it before.  In addition to the sound dampening, I expect some better insulation for maintaining a comfortable temperature while camping/sleeping and even driving.

Next up, I intend to figure out how to remove the interior panels along the driver's side near the table to the rear and other back panel as well.

Here are a couple of photos.

VW Eurovan Westy poptop cleaning

It has been a while since I cleaned the poptop of my Westy.

My project for today was to clean it.  I bought the recommended Fiberglass Oxidation Remover and 303 Aerospace protectant from GoWesty (their prices were competitive with other online vendors).

Here is a photo of one section before.  Notice all the oxidation and spots.

With a few rags, an orbital and some elbow grease, I was able to do the poptop in less than an hour.  Here is the end result.  I sprayed it with the 303 protectant as well.

 

1.5" lift of my Eurovan

My Eurovan was loaded up pretty heavy on my 2015 trip to Burning Man from San Diego.  It was evident that with the already low clearance and the upgrade 16" wheels and larger tires that it was riding quite close to the wheel well in the rear.

A lot of Eurovan owners, GoWesty, and Cole Ford from CaveVan have all mentioned or installed a lift.  I decided it was time.

First, you need the spacers for the rear (the front is simply adjusted with a special socket to adjust the front torsion bars).  The rear spacers can be purchased from CaveVan or GoWesty.  I got mine from CaveVan because Cole Ford has been very helpful in the Eurovan groups over the years.  The spacers are essentially a high grade, dense plastic ring that go in between the body and the spring.

It is obvious that the spacers go on the top of the spring.  There are a couple of ways to do the installation (leave wheel/tire on or take it off), and I used both because I didn't realize that the spacers need to go on top of the existing OEM rubber spacer.  So I did the process twice.

For installation, the first step is to remove the bolt on the underside of the shock.


Next you need to jack the Eurovan up to the point that the wheel comes off the ground.  (or if you took the wheel off, then ensure the suspension arm is at its bottom most point)


See now that the suspension arm is down that the spring can be removed with a little pulling.


Next, remove the top OEM rubber pad/spacer (notice the keyed area for the spring to sit in).  Then insert your lift spacers above (mine are white, shown in photo).  Also note that the bottom spring pad has  keyed area for the spring to sit in.  Be sure to line those areas up so the spring sits properly (top and bottom).


Start lowering jack (wheel should be back on if you removed it... or I guess you could jack the suspension arm up, but I probably wouldn't do it that way).  Ensure that the shock slips into the correct location.  Then put shock bolt/bushing/washer back on and tighten.  You're done.  After doing it twice, I could probably do it again in 15 minutes total.



I have not received my special socket (27mm and very deep) to finish adjustment of the front torsion bars.  But, ultimately, I will bring the Eurovan level and closely monitor alignment and the CV axles/joints for any vibration caused by the angle change.

Summary of recent projects on my 1993 Eurovan

Busy time as I've been prepping for an upcoming trip.  It was just a few weeks ago that I was had a conversation with a good friend that has a Vanagon Westy Weekender.  We were talking about our vans (mine is a 1993 Eurovan Westy Weekender).  He talked about how much he loved his van and how he plans to keep it forever.  I love my van too... and after thinking about it, I hope I can keep mine forever.
I had been putting off some investments into my van because, until that conversation and the subsequent conscious choice to keep it, I thought maybe I'd sell it... thus, I'd been putting off some maintenance and upgrades.
Well with my new attitude and commitment, here is a summary of recently finished projects.
- New 16" wheels (upgrade from 15")
- New Poptop seal from GoWesty
- New Bilstein Sport shocks (from GoWesty, replaced completely useless/destroyed shocks)
- Repaired a large tear in my Poptop (casualty from my friends' kids during a surf camp trip, California Surf Tours)
- New battery monitors for main and house (simple cigarette lighter method, with dongle lead for house)
- Placed kitchen drawer mats in storage areas to reduce clutter noise
- Adjusted doors to close tighter
- Glued some loose moldings
- Major service (timing, pumps, serpentine)
- Replaced faulty AC high/low pressure switch
- Tried to charge AC, but likely air in system, so took to a shop where they evacuated it and charged about 1lb with dye, likely some small leaks and will follow up
- Hung some small cargo nets inside
- Troubleshot a cabin light, ended up just being a look connection

AC high/low pressure switch from PartsGeek.com

Cleaning the area around the poptop seal

Front shock plate assembly

Old shocks that were completely worthless

VagCom scan on my Eurovan

This past Sunday, I met with a VW genius to talk shop and scan my 1993 Eurovan with the VagCom diagnostic tool.

I had some concerns about a recent service and the readiness of my Eurovan for an upcoming trip.  We hooked up the scanner OBD1 attachment to the fuse box area and started the software on the laptop.  The software detected the VIN and ECU model.  We then began to look for fault codes and engine performance stats (like idle RPM, throttle body angle, etc.).  All of this information can be saved to a log for later review.

Everything checked out OK, and then the two of us took test drives in each others EVs.  I immediately noticed that his hard top Eurovan had less interior noises/rattle and his suspension was much tighter/responsive (his EV has the Bilstein HDs).

I am very thankful that we had a chance to meet, and I feel more confident to take my EV on my next road trip.  I'm even going to try to swap out the shocks before I depart.

Service performed on EV

Timing belt, water pump, serpentine belt, coolant water pump, coolant temperature sensors all done in a recent service at VW Paradise / Paradise Motorsports.

I also did a fuel system cleaning service and a compression test (all within spec).

I had a slow coolant leak that they said was fixed.  I'm also hoping that my EV mpg increases.  It definitely seems like it is running smoother.  Also got an oil change and gave the EV a quick wax.